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Old Tel Aviv Port
By: Amir Yarkoni
On the northern Tel Aviv coast, by the estuary of the Yarkon River with the Mediterranean, packed with a rich yet brief share of modern history and present activity, lays the old port of Tel Aviv. This premise, inactive as a sea port today, is nonetheless one of the liveliest quarters of Tel Aviv as far as nightlife and daytime hangout resort.
History
"During the first two generations of the re-settlement of our ancient homeland, we have concentrated on the land and neglected the sea……recent events proved this attitude to be mistaken and dangerous…….without the sea we are exposed to blockade and starvation….no technical or financial hardship, no political obstacle will stop us from establishing our own Hebrew access to the sea……….." [David Ben Gurion, 1936]
The Tel Aviv sea port was built in the years 1936-1938, during the time of the British mandate over Palestine. It was one of the results of the Arab riots of 1936 and subsequent paralyzing of the Arab-controlled Jaffa port, which was until then the main and only gateway for import and export serving the center of Israel.
In times of minimum to no air traffic, and rough land transportation, it was a vital supply channel to the Hebrew "ishuv" (colony) of that time. Necessary cement for construction was brought in, as well as other products. The first Bag of cement that has arrived in May 1936 is still presented at the Tel Aviv museum today…..
In 1948, with the formal establishment of the state of Israel, the first ship carrying immigrants to Israel has landed in the Tel Aviv port under the Israeli flag.
In 1965, with the opening of the Ashdod sea port, 40KM south of Tel Aviv, the Tel Aviv port was shut down as an active sea port. It sunk in oblivion for the next 20 years, only to be wakened once again in the 80's, this time as a recreation, nightlife and water sports center. Today, the old port of Tel Aviv is no longer a port, but it is a great place for hanging out in the day or night, eating or just taking a walk along the old pier to the Yarkon estuary to the sea..
Places of interest
The focal point of tel aviv port is a relatively small area packed with seaside restaurants, bars, café's and nightlife. This area stretches from the southern bank of the Yarkon that borders the reading chimney, and 300 yards southward along the water line. There is a bridge that connects the two banks of the Yarkon just before the estuary, and the main area of interest starts at the southern end of the bridge.
Boya Restaurant
Boya is a seafood restaurant facing the sea, with indoor and outdoor seating. Sea view is great, especially from the outdoor area, but also from inside. Boya is a prestigious tel aviv restaurant, so expect to spend a minimum of 80NIS PP. As far as food, Boya has some good, fresh seafood offerings such as baby calamari, shrimps, and some more. If you are into seafood, this is a nice option, though not a cheap one.
Shalvata
This bar-restaurant carries the name of one of Israel's largest mental institutions…..with a sign at the entrance that greets you in Hebrew: "Shalvata – the sanest place in Tel Aviv….." it put a smile on my face…the word itself means tranquility, peace.
Shalvata is located just south of Boya, and offers great seaside view with sea-front tables just kissing the waves. Shalvata is a spread out, outdoor pub-diner, some kind of a unique Israeli thing with backgammon (shesh besh) tables available for the guests' amusement…. Shalvata Offers a relaxed atmosphere, good music and superior view of the sea, though the food is not that great. The service is friendly and rather casual. An open bar in the center of the premises is serving alcohol. A nice place to view the sunset, Shalvata tends to get very crowded on summer weekends and holidays, at which you might find a long line of people waiting to get in. I recommend visiting Shalvata on a week day, any time of the day has its own special magic.
TLV club
The TLV (airport code for Tel-Aviv) is one of Tel Aviv's most popular night clubs and a leader in the local night scene. Architected with rotating arches and other gimmicks, and equipped with a state of the art sound and lighting systems, it offers mostly electronic music and live performances by various local and international DJs. Israel has a big and well-known Electronic music scene, and the TLV has Leading electronic artists performing. DJ Tiesto, Paul oakenfold, Israeli Astral projection and more play live in the TLV from time to time.
TLV offers special gay and lesbian nights, swinger parties, and loads of pretty boys and girls waiting to get in, on the busy summer nights…lines can get rough during weekend nights and front door selection can be annoying. The TLV has also a sea front section.
Erlich
Friendly, well designed and usually quite packed, Erlich is built as a round bar that occupies most of the space. Perfect for meeting people which is the main activity that is going on between those specific four walls….
Erlich also offers dining tables with a minimum-order policy and loads of sun-tanned boys and girls around the large bar. Often, around midnight there are no seats available and many people stand behind the first circle around the bar.
The music is usually contemporary with occasional 80's and 90's outbursts. If you are into mingling, this is a good option for you to meet other people….
Off The Beaten Track
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| Walk down to the end off the wooden pier and go down to the westward stone pier where the fishermen are. Here is the perfect place for watching the sunset or looking at the waves. Beware, the stones are slippery. Watch for brides coming to get photographed before their wedding, often getting soaked from the waves. You can also dangle your legs over the water from the wooden pier above. |
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Tel Aviv Port During Daytime
In spring and summer, and on many sunny winter days, the Tel Aviv old port is definitely worth a daytime visit. The views are nice, with the Yarkon River and the sea meeting; it's particularly nice to watch from the bridge connecting the two river banks. Most bars and restaurants are open during the day, offering day time and business menu and a very relaxed setting.
You can start your tour in the center point, where Shalvata and Boya are, and walk southward among rusty old workshops and warehouses to the other side of the port, where the old pier is. This area too offers nice views along the old wharf, with more restaurants and café's and pretty seaside vista.
Jacky Says...
- I always come to meet girls on Erlich, but they never let me in. One doorman told me I'm too young and another doorman told me I'm too old. Why don't just tell me they have a selection against donkeys?
- I always take a dip in the Yarkon estuary to the sea. Somehow, the water is very warm and cozy at that specific point…the color of the water is somehow strange though and that strange smell…. Probably best not to swim in the Yarkon!!
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